The honest 2026 answer: roughly three out of four new Anderson Brothers gunite pools ship with a salt chlorine generator. Not because salt is some miracle product — it isn’t — but because for most Southeast Michigan families, the day-to-day experience of owning a salt pool is meaningfully better than owning a tablet-fed traditional chlorine pool. Here is the actual comparison, written for a homeowner who wants to make the right call.
What “salt water pool” actually means (and what it doesn’t)
The marketing has confused a lot of people. Let’s set the record straight in one paragraph: a salt water pool is still a chlorine pool. The salt chlorine generator takes dissolved salt in the pool water (typically 3,000–3,500 ppm — about 1/10th the salinity of seawater, less salty than a tear) and electrolyzes it to produce chlorine continuously. The chlorine sanitizes the water exactly the same way tablet chlorine does. When the chlorine does its job, it converts back to salt, and the cycle continues. You are not swimming in saltwater — you are swimming in mildly salinated chlorinated water that generates its own chlorine on demand.
Side-by-side: salt chlorine vs. traditional chlorine
| Factor | Salt chlorine | Traditional chlorine |
|---|---|---|
| Installed cost (new build, generator) | +$2,500–$4,500 | $0 (uses standard chlorinator) |
| Annual chemical cost | ~$150–$300 (salt + minor) | ~$500–$900 (tablets + shock) |
| Major service interval | Cell replacement every 5–7 years ($700–$1,200) | None inherent |
| Daily maintenance | Effectively zero — cell runs automatically | Tablet feeder refill weekly, weekly chemistry test |
| Skin and eye feel | Softer, less chlorine smell | Stronger chlorine smell, drier feel |
| Effect on plaster (gunite) | Slightly more aggressive on plaster over time | Neutral if balanced |
| Effect on metal equipment | Slightly more corrosive — needs zinc anode | Neutral |
| Algae resistance | Excellent (continuous generation) | Good if you stay current |
The real-world experience differences
Salt: what changes for the homeowner
- You stop buying chlorine tablets. Big bucket of tabs lasts a year or more in storage; you’ll use a couple of pucks per year on top of the cell, mostly for shock.
- Water feels softer. This is real and consistent. Swimmers notice it within the first session. The slight salinity reduces the “tight skin” feel and the chemical taste in your mouth when you submerge.
- No more chlorine smell on bathing suits. Salt cells produce chlorine without the chloramine byproducts that cause the strong “pool smell.” Suits, towels, and hair fare measurably better.
- You add salt about twice a season. Heavy rain dilutes salinity. Splash-out reduces it. The cell tells you when to add — bag of pool salt is $15–$25, takes 10 minutes.
- The cell needs cleaning maybe twice a year. Five-minute job — remove the cell, dunk in muriatic acid solution, rinse, reinstall.
- The cell will eventually fail. Plan on a $700–$1,200 cell replacement every 5–7 years.
Traditional chlorine: what changes for the homeowner
- You buy tablets. A 50 lb bucket of trichlor tabs runs $200–$300 and lasts most of a season for an average pool.
- You refill the chlorinator weekly. Drop in 4–8 pucks, twist the dial to your setting, move on.
- You shock weekly to bi-weekly. Cal-hypo or non-chlorine shock, depending on conditions.
- You test water more often. Without auto-generation, chlorine levels drift more — weekly testing minimum, twice-weekly in heat waves.
- You get the chemistry smell, especially at peak use. Heavy bather load + warm pool + tablet feed = the classic chlorine smell.
What people get wrong about salt pools
“Salt is corrosive — it’ll wreck my equipment”
Modern pool equipment is designed to handle salt pool salinity, which is roughly 1/10th seawater. The real concern is on a small list of metals: standard galvanized steel ladders and handrails will pit faster in a salt pool than a chlorine pool. We install all-stainless or composite alternatives on every salt-chlorine new build. Heater heat exchangers should be cupronickel (most modern heaters are). With a properly sized sacrificial zinc anode on the equipment pad — $80 part, replaced annually — equipment life in a salt pool is statistically the same as in a chlorine pool.
“Salt will damage my plaster”
Salt itself doesn’t damage plaster. Imbalanced salt water can — specifically, low calcium hardness combined with salt is more aggressive on plaster than the same situation without salt. The fix is to keep calcium hardness in the 250–400 ppm range and not let pH ride high. Owners who balance their pool see plaster lifespan equivalent to traditional chlorine pools. Owners who don’t see plaster etching either way.
“Salt pools are maintenance-free”
They aren’t. They’re lower maintenance — especially on the daily and weekly side — but you still test chemistry, you still shock occasionally, you still clean the cell, and you still adjust salinity. The right framing: a salt pool replaces a chore (refilling the chlorinator weekly) with a checkpoint (verifying the cell is producing, twice a month).
When traditional chlorine is the right call
We still install standard chlorinators on new builds when:
- The pool will be lightly used (vacation home, second property).
- The budget needs the salt-cell line item to go elsewhere — usually toward an automation upgrade or water feature.
- The homeowner has run salt before and didn’t like it (rare, but real — a small subset of people don’t care for the softer feel).
- The pool has a heavy-metal water source that makes salt staining likely without aggressive pre-treatment.
Converting an existing pool from chlorine to salt
If you have an existing gunite pool with a working chlorinator, conversion is straightforward: install a salt cell and control board on the equipment pad ($2,000–$4,000 retrofit), bring salinity up to 3,200 ppm by adding salt directly to the pool, swap out a few non-salt-friendly pieces (galvanized handrail, etc.), install a zinc anode. One-day job for our service team. The crossover point where lower chemical cost pays back the conversion is roughly 4–6 years for average-use pools.
If you are mid-design with us, salt vs. traditional is one of the equipment-pad decisions we walk through. See our add-on features page for what comes standard on a typical Anderson Brothers build.
What to do next
If you are building or remodeling with us this season, you’ll get our recommendation in the equipment-pad walk — usually salt, occasionally traditional, based on use case. If you have an existing pool and you’re thinking about converting, message us with your equipment-pad photo and we’ll give you a real number for the retrofit before you commit. We serve all of Southeast Michigan — Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, West Bloomfield, Rochester, Troy, Northville, Novi, and beyond.
Frequently asked questions
Is a salt water pool actually chlorine-free?
No. Salt water pools are still chlorine pools. The salt chlorine generator produces chlorine continuously by electrolyzing dissolved salt. You swim in chlorinated water that simply makes its own chlorine instead of using tablets.
How often do I need to replace a salt cell?
Plan on cell replacement every 5-7 years for a typical residential salt cell. Heavily used pools or pools with chemistry imbalances may shorten that life. Cell replacement runs $700-$1,200 installed.
Will salt water damage my gunite pool plaster?
Not by itself. Salt water with proper chemistry (calcium hardness 250-400 ppm, balanced pH) shows the same plaster lifespan as traditional chlorine pools. Imbalanced salt water can etch plaster faster than imbalanced chlorine water, so chemistry matters more, not less.
How much salt does a pool need?
Target salinity for a residential salt pool is 3,000-3,500 ppm, depending on the cell manufacturer. A 20,000-gallon pool needs roughly 12 bags (40 lb each) of pool salt to reach target on initial fill. Two or three additional bags per year top up losses from rain dilution and splash-out.
Can I convert my existing pool to salt?
Almost always yes. The retrofit involves adding a salt cell and control board to the equipment pad, raising salinity, and swapping a few non-salt-friendly metal pieces. Cost runs $2,000-$4,000 depending on equipment-pad layout. Pays back in chemical savings in 4-6 years.
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